Emily Thornberry MP's Blog

Arctic wisdom - day 6

Dog sled Rusuvarri to Kilpisjarvi

The day will include more fabulous scenery and hilly terrain, but fortunately the last 20km of the day will be more easy going.  On arrival we'll prepare an evening meal before heading into the town of Kilpisjarvi. 

There are many threats to the sacred sites and culture that has been so important for the Sámi for thousands of years.  There has been the need to adapt to oil exploration, mining, dam building, logging, military bombing ranges and other development. 

All the different uses of the land mean that the future of important reindeer calving and seasonal grazing lands are in danger of being lost.  I am told it is estimated that a third of traditional grazing lands have been lost.    

Over the past 40 years the Sámi have been reclaiming their language, culture and ancestral rights. In 1968 a national anthem and flag were created by the Sámi.   Even the use of their name ‘Sámi’, which means ‘the people’ is important to them, instead of being called ‘Laplander’.   

The increasing environmental problems have made others consider the Sámi’s ways of life with increasing interest.  There there is much to learn from the Sámi culture and the knowledge they have from living in the arctic wilderness.   

Arctic wisdom - fishing

Fishing has always been important for the Sámi, both as a source of food and income.  For those who herd reindeer, fishing has saved them in years when the grazing is poor.  During the summer months, when many of the reindeer herders are living in isolated homes in the mountains, fish becomes the main source of food. In the autumn, it is common to catch fish and freeze them for the winter.

Over time a fishing trade became established where fish buyers used boats, helicopters and aeroplanes to buy fish from the families who lived and fished in the most distant mountain lakes.  Arctic char and whitefish were the most common species of fish caught for this ‘cash fishing’ that was most active during the 1970s. 

These days the importance of cash fishing has declined and there are only a small number of Sámi who live solely from fishing, but fishing for an additional income is important.  Small- scale fishing is also very important to meet the nutritional needs of all households.

Arctic wisdom - Sami clothing

The traditional Sámi costume is called a kolt.  The kolt is an important identity symbol, especially for ceremonies like christenings, funerals and weddings.

The appearance of the kolt varies between different regions.  The way it is cut also differs depending on if it is a men’s or women’s, and sometimes depending on the owner’s age and status.  Fashion also plays a part in the differences between kolts today.

In the past, basic materials from reindeer and other animals with fur were used to make clothes at home, buying any other needed materials from tradesmen. 

Traditional accessories for kolts include shoes, belts and,for women, shawls.  Storm collars, jewellery, gloves, trousers and caps are also worn. 

Keep an eye out for any new fashions around Westminster!

Arctic wisdom - day 5

Dog sled from Jarama – Rusuvarri fishing camp

This is the most challenging day yet as we sled to Rusuvarri, a fishing camp located in mountain and tundra terrain above the tree line. That means going uphill!

Times and distances will vary today for two reasons.  Firstly unpredictable weather, which could be made worse because the greater exposure means the wind could blow snow across the trail. That would make visibility difficult and slow our progress.  Secondly, the reindeer may make an appearance, and forcing us to loop round them.

On the up side, we will be travelling through some of the most dramatic scenery of the challenge- valleys, creeks and stunning mountain views.  No day-dreaming allowed though, we must be prepared to jump off our sleds to help the huskies get to the top of the sections.

Arctic wisdom - day 4

Dog sled from Ovre Sopero - Jamara Sami camp

The morning begins with what will become a familiar routine; feed and water the dogs, have breakfast, tidy the cabin and pack the sleds…then off on to the next trail.  From here on vehicles are not able to follow us, it will be snowmobile support from now on. 

The trail leads north, further into the wilderness and up over hilly terrain, with the likelihood of coming across reindeer, one of the most important components of the Sámi livelihood, culture and economy.

Reindeer are well suited to the harsh environment, with fur covering each from top to toe to keep warm, and a large fat reserve to get them through the winter months. They eat over 250 species of plants as well as various types of lichen found hanging in trees. 

At one time the presence of reindeer in a Sámi family affected almost all aspects of their lives, providing a ‘living larder’, taxation, and payments to being used in courting and for marriage.  Up to 1500 the Sámi were mainly fishermen and trappers, living a nomadic lifestyle. This meant they moved with the migration of the reindeer as they sought new pastures to eat. 

After 1500, due to over-hunting to pay taxes to Norway, Sweden and Russia, the number of reindeer started to decrease, and whilst many of the Sámi changed their ways of live to include cattle farming, a small number of Sámi started to tame the reindeer that continue to migrate nowadays.

Whilst reindeer have appeared to decrease in importance, they are still used by the Sámi for traditional purposes, including making crafts from the antlers and other products from the skin to sell.  There are also still plenty for the team to spot given that there are approximately 200,000 in Finland alone, mostly owned by the Sámi.

If we come across any herds of reindeer on the trail we will have to make a diversion to avoid shifting the direction of the herd.  The reindeer want to head north for better vegetation in Norway, but Swedish reindeer farmers face heavy fines if they let their herd go into Norway too soon, so they keep them in Sweden for as long as possible. 

Arctic wisdom - day 3

Today we get to learn an essential skill for the Arctic, how to build an igloo! 

Humans, even those that have been in a freezing environment for thousands of years, are not too great at adapting to such extreme conditions, nor are they quite as flexible as most animals.  Instead humans use their inventiveness to cope, using as little energy as possible to survive in a ‘comfort zone’.  The igloos are one such way of coping with the extreme climate. 

Although it will take about 6 hours to complete one, the value of the igloo should not be underestimated - the Inuit in Arctic Canada use igloos for much of the winter season to keep warm. The dome structure of the igloo creates good stability and means as small an area as possible of the surface is exposed to the Arctic winds, providing an excellent shelter.  Any ice that melts due to heat from the inside  runs to the sides of the igloo where it refreezes, adding to its strength and keeping those inside comfortable.   In the evening we'll sleep in the igloo, with overnight snow acting as an extra blanket to keep us snug. 

If the weather proves to be too cold for the igloo option, we will be able to stay in a turf kata, a tent shaped building made from round birch and turf, which works in a similar way to keep us warm. 

Arctic wisdom - day 1

Our team of Arctic adventurers fly from London to Kittila via Helsinki, arriving in the late afternoon, and then a minibus transports us to lodgings at Katkasuvanto on the Finland/ Sweden border, and into the heart of Sápmi Land. 

This land is home to one of the largest indigenous groups in Europe; the Sámi people.  They have a population estimated to be between 75,000 to 100,000 people. They have inhabited the northern regions of Scandinavia for thousands of years, with some evidence suggesting they have been there from as early as 8100BC. 

At its peak this land spanned across an area the size of Sweden alone, however, settlers drove the Sámi progressively north, and nowadays their land encompasses parts of northern Sweden, Norway, Finland and the Kola Peninsular of Russia.  Whilst we may not be used to the freezing climate, it is part of the Sámi’s every day life that they have learnt to build their activities around. 

More of the Sámi people’s lifestyles will be explored over the coming days of the expedition.